Dive into the history and beauty of the "City of Corsairs", which is a perfect destination for a long weekend summer trip.
The port of Saint Malo, located at the start of the Rance River and on the shore of the English Channel, is considered one of the most popular tourist destinations in Brittany. It is known for the most powerful tides in the world, quarters of the old city, surrounded by a fort wall, and, of course, it’s extensive beaches. Once Saint-Malo was a fortified pirate base, later it was strengthened to protect the civilians from attacks by the Normans and the British. The second name of Saint-Malo is the "City of Corsairs", originated in the Middle Ages, is now mercilessly exploited by local entrepreneurs. Here you can get a fashionable haircut in the "Corsair Hairdresser", eat "Corsair Pancakes" and even buy a remedy for a cold in the "Corsair Pharmacy.”
St. Malo was founded in the 6th century by monks from Wales; as a city it was formed only by the middle of the 12th century. The city’s whole life is directly connected with the sea: many famous travellers and explorers are local natives. The geographical position of the city is such that it could afford to distance itself from everyone and even in the 16th century declared itself an independent republic. Saint-Malo suffered a great deal during the landing of the Allies on the mainland of Europe during World War II, but with the efforts of the townspeople it was restored in almost the same condition as it existed in the 18th century. Given that the population of the city is only slightly more than 50 thousand people, in the warm (summer) season there are up to two hundred thousand guests as Saint-Malo's popularity with tourists is so high. Overall, there are about 2.5 million travellers per year.
Beaches in Saint-Malo are sandy, and quite spacious. Their infrastructure is developed as much as is required for a comfortable stay: pavilions with drinks and ice cream, rental of sports equipment, umbrellas, and sun-beds to the services of holidaymakers. For the convenience of those who swim on the beaches, long wooden piers and structures are built to protect them against the powerful waves of the Atlantic.
The climate and natural riches of these places allow Saint-Malo to maintain the status of a popular health resort. Just next to the old part of the city, in an elegant 19th century mansion, the well-known thalassotherapy centre “Les Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo” (5000 square meters) is located. Wellness and cosmetology procedures, which are offered here as part of various programs, have a beneficial effect on the vital forces of the body and allow you to quickly recover from the stresses and fatigue that characterise modern life, as well as get rid of excess weight. A modernly equipped gym, six seawater swimming pools, eighty cabinets for individual procedures, a beauty salon and a hairdresser are ready to welcome guests all year round. Wellness programs here are based on the use of sea water and algae. The centre has existed since 1963 and is famous for its unique results and highly professional staff.
If you decide to stay in “Grand Hotel des Thermes” for the time of your visit, the recreational experiences will be unforgettable. The hotel, without exaggeration, is luxurious. It was built in 1867, and immediately became popular among the Russian elite. Completely matching the style of belle époque, the hotel welcomes its guests with interiors, decorated with marble, light wood and metal. Each of the hotel rooms breathes luxury and sophisticated elegance, and from the views from the windows of rooms, restaurants and halls are breathtaking. There are more modest hotel options in the city, their level varies from two star to four-star hotels, so that everyone will find accommodation here suitable to their taste and financial status.
The city is divided into three parts: Intra-Muros is the city within the walls, Saint-Servan is the quarter on the mainland, and Rotheneuf is the eastern suburb. The old city stands on the island, during the tides the sea water approaches its very walls. Walking along its walls, you can get a full picture of the old city. The panorama of Saint-Malo is very interesting and provides an opportunity to see the structure of the streets - narrow, crooked and stone-paved. In addition, this walk can have a purely utilitarian significance: the surroundings are well visible, so you can set goals for visiting, for example, the town of Dinard, Fort-National and the island of Grand Bé.
In the wall at the western tower there is an aquarium. About a hundred of its tanks are right in the wall and give an opportunity to admire the inhabitants of the coastal waters of the Atlantic. The unofficially proclaimed centre of the old city is Chateau Gaillard, a castle built here in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today it houses a museum with a non-trivial composition, telling about the history of the city and of its famous inhabitants. There is also a gallery of wax figures, interesting for fans of this genre, however with nothing remarkable presented.
Entering the “Old Town” through the gates of “Grande Porte”: behind the tourist office, turn off the Esplanade St-Vincent on to Quai St-Vincent. Almost all the buildings inside the city walls were restored after World War II. Now we see Saint-Malo as it was in the 17th-18th centuries. Granite walls, attics, powerful chimneys (their design is specially adapted to withstand strong western winds) are full of harsh dignity. The navigators of Saint-Malo built such massive houses, perhaps tired of perpetual rocking on waves at sea, trying as hard as possible to gain stability on land. Particularly beautiful ensembles of buildings were preserved on rue Dinan, and the facades of houses facing the fortress walls. By miracle several wooden buildings survived not only the bombing of 1944, but also the fire of 1661. This is the arch of Recole (La voute des Recollet) on rue Rempars and house number five on rue Pelicot, which, in a way, remind you of the carcass of an unfinished ship construction. Sooner or later, the streets of the “Old Town” will lead to the place des Freres Lammenais. In its eastern part is the cathedral Saint-Vincent. The Cathedral of Saint-Vincent, whose vaults are considered the oldest surviving in Brittany. Over the summer, the cathedral hosts classical music concerts.
To the north-east of the cathedral is the castle of Saint-Malo. The city’s small keep - the oldest surviving buildings of the city (XIV century). The big keep was built in the shape of a horseshoe in the 15th century. Four corner towers served as the basis for a new fortress, which was built in the XVII century according to Vauban's plan. The tower next to the gates of St. Thomas called "Quic-en-Groigne" used to have an inscription that was destroyed during the French Revolution. According to the legend, the tower was built by the order of Anne of Brittany, although the inhabitants of the city were against its construction. And on the plaque was carved: "Quic-en-Groigne, ainsi sera, c'est mon plaisir" ("Whatever your opinion is, this tower is built”). The castle houses the City Hall, as well as the Museum of the City (Musee de la Ville). The exhibition is devoted to the history of the city and the Saint-Malo region.
You can access the walls through the gates of Porte de Dinan, Grande Porte, Porte St-Vincent (today it is the main entrance to the Old Town), Porte des Bes and Porte St-Pierre. Porte St-Vincent (Gate Saint Vincent) - the main entrance to the “Old Town”. Double gates decorated with images of Breton arms and mottoes "Potius mori quam foedari" ("death is better than chains") and "Semper Fidelis" ("Always true") on the outside. The coat of arms depicts a grating, marking the defence of the city, and an ermine which is an allegorical animal of the Dukes of Brittany, a symbol of purity and fidelity. These gates were installed in 1708 - 1710 under Louis XIV, which is marked on the inscription at the bottom of the stairway. “Grande Porte” - the oldest gates in the city. They were part of the medieval wall and they could only be reached by boat. Protected by two round towers, which were constructed at the end of the XVI Century. Until 1793, they were crowned with bell towers, and a lively market boiled at their foot - all the merchant ships docked near these towers. Above the gate, facing the city, towered a copy of the statue of the Virgin Mary (XV century). It is from the Great Gates that a beautiful perspective opens up on the Grand Rue (on which the first fire in the city arose in 1661) and the bell tower of Saint-Vincent Cathedral.
A walk to the fortress on L’Ile du Grand Bé ou Bey, located on the homonymous island at 400 m from the city walls, can be complicated by a high tide, during which the road linking the island to the mainland completely disappears under the water for about six hours . Go to the fortress through the gate of Porte des Bes, past the beach Bon Secours with a swimming pond protected from ocean tides. In the Celtic language the word bé means "grave" - on this island the writer Chateaubriand, born in Saint-Malo in 1768, is buried. But that is not the only reason why this island is famous. It was there that the first meeting of the Saint-Malo commune was held in 1308, when the city rebelled and decided to elect its own mayor. Around 1360, the hermits built the chapel Notre-Dame-du-Laurier and Saint Ouen on the island. The bastion was erected in 1555, which was reconstructed in 1652. Chateaubriand was buried on the island on July 18, 1848, who twenty years before expressed his desire to be buried on this piece of land in order to be able to "continue the conversation with the sea."
Near the shore stands the Solidor Tower (Tour Solidor), in the past - a powerful defensive structure, and now - one of the symbols of the city. In it you can see the exhibits of the museum of navigation. If we generalise, then we can say that the island part of Saint-Malo is a typical medieval city, in which the streets are narrow and paved with stone, the houses are stern and are so close together that not all the windows are exposed to the sun's rays. A pleasant dissonance is provided by pretty shops, all sorts of galleries and hospitable cafes, which in many places are located today on the ground floors of these old, majestic buildings.
The quarter of Saint-Servan has been inhabited since the Roman times. And now it is the main part of residential quarters. As part of the modern infrastructure of this city, a particular interest presents the Rance power station, which uses tidal energy. It was opened in 1966 in the presence of Charles de Gaulle. By the way, the French are very proud that they are the first in the world to use this type of energy. The suburb of Rotheneuf is not devoid of individuality, but its sights are not rich with locations for tourist visits.
After you’ve discovered all the historical and cultural landmarks of the port city there are still plenty of things to do in order to enjoy your trip to the fullest. In Saint-Malo, you can go for a game of golf, do horseback riding, or sailing. Nightlife lovers are offered Casino (quai Duguay Trouin) with bars, a pub, a pizzeria, slot machines, a disco with visiting DJ’s. In early July, the “Festival des Folklores du Monde" , a folklore festival, is held here. When the city is filled with musical and dance performances. You could also be interested in taking a boat trips (Emeraude Lines). From May to September, ferry traffic from the place immediately outside the walls of Porte de Dinan to the islands of Les Chausey is organised. The round-trip ticket costs € 21 (children € 15), traveling time is 90 minutes one way. You can swim to the island of Cezembre for 12 (6) euros, 20 minutes one way as well as to Dinan - for 26 (15) euros, 2 hours 30 minutes in one direction. In addition you can visit the lovely town of Dinard, where you can have a great time sipping on wine with a magnificent view of the sea. If you do decide to go there, be sure to visit a small seafood restaurant "Oyster Club", which will surprise you with delicious platters of the delicacies of the sea.
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